When growing violets, it can sometimes be observed that the center of the rosette (the place where new young leaves come from) suddenly darkens, dries out, or turns black, young leaves do not develop or are severely deformed. There is a death of the point of growth.
1. Improper application of mineral fertilizers.
The lack of boron leads to the fact that phenolic compounds accumulate in the tissues of the plant, they poison it. The youngest leaves suffer the most, they remain small, their edges curl down, then the leaves turn brown and die. The growth point dies, the stalk and leaf blade become brittle. Flowers fade, and young peduncles with buds die.
Lack of boron can cause excessive introduction of potassium during feeding, in this case, there is also a violation of the normal absorption of calcium, magnesium, zinc. A lack of calcium also leads to inhibition and death of the growth point. If a fertilizer with too high a concentration of potassium was applied during irrigation, and at the same time it hit the growing point, then it will die.
If the plant is transplanted into a substrate with an excess of potassium, then symptoms of a high salt content will appear: the outlet becomes dark green, the leaves become smaller, and growth slows down. If you pay attention to this in time, you can prevent the growth point from dying off if it is good to shed an earthen ball with a warm, weak (slightly pinkish) solution of potassium permanganate (at least 0.3 l per plant), letting it drain from the pot, then put it on dry tray.
2. Attack and rapid reproduction of ticks
Young leaves in the center of the rosette are deformed, twisted, become hard and brittle. With a strong lesion, the center of the rosette, the growing point of the violet, may die off. But this is not the only sign, if the violet was struck by ticks, then on the leaves you can see bite marks, the smallest bright dots. The mites themselves may not be visible due to their small size. Remember that severe tick infestation usually occurs in a hot and dry room.
3. Damage to the central part of the outlet by fungal diseases
In this case, young leaves become lethargic, pale or brown. Fertilizer poisoning and tick damage can cause a fungal disease. For example, gray rot is a fungus of the genus Botrytis (it has many varieties), it infects neighboring healthy cells with toxic secretions, then the next ones, so the affected area is getting larger and larger.
Contributes to the development of the disease: water ingress into the center of the outlet, low temperature (below 18 degrees) in the room, drafts, the center of the outlet is closed from the influx of fresh air by thick raised leaves of the middle rows or abundant bouquet flowering.
Treatment: remove all affected parts of the plant, spray the violet with a solution of some fungicide (Fundazol, Skor, Vectra, Chistotsvet, etc.). For prevention: spray all plants in the same room with the patient, remove leaves with signs of decay in a timely manner, control the number of ticks, prevent the spread of other pests, do not store vegetables and fruits in a room with a collection of violets, introduce a quarantine regime for all new specimens.
4. Incorrect planting or transplanting violets
If you plant a violet incorrectly and bury it too deeply in the ground, then when watering, water will fall on the growth point, which contributes to decay and even death of the entire plant.
Tips to help avoid the death of transplanted plants
When planting children in an earthen substrate, make a hole, fill it with moist, repeatedly washed (the last 2-3 times with boiling water) river sand. Then make a hole already in the sand, lower the roots of the separated baby there and sprinkle them with the same almost sterile sand. The roots will then grow through the sand, and will take food in the earthen soil, but with such a landing, even if deepening occurs, the water will simply flow down through the sand, while the children will never die.
The method is especially good if the pot is too big.
If it is necessary to transplant an adult violet or add earth to a pot, and the stem is already bare, I had to remove the rotted leaves from the bottom row. Then, it is necessary to separate all the “stumps” from the leaves with a fingernail, sprinkle the stem with crushed coal, make a small bandage of sphagnum moss dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, only then pour the earth.
What to do if the growing point of the violet has died:
- If the growth point died in a baby planted from a leaf, then the prognosis is not comforting – the plant will most likely die.
- If the growth point has died in an adult violet, then after all the amputations, treatments with drugs, you can try to root a healthy leaf, better than the second row from the bottom, cutting off 2/3 of its petiole. On the section remaining after the removal of the top, several points of growth may appear.
- Wait until they grow up to 4 leaves, remove all but one. If you have experience in growing, then you can grow stepchildren a little, break them out by prying them with your fingernail, and then root them in sterile river sand, as is done when breeding chimera violets.
- It may turn out that the disease has spread through the vascular system deep along the stem and no fungicide helps, the leaves in the center continue to die off, turning black at the beginning of the petiole, it is better to throw away such a plant, boil the pot for 20 minutes. If the variety is very valuable, you can still try to root the leaf