Lamps, flashlights, wall lamps and table lamps, stand-alone and stationary, ordinary and outlandish, there is no choice now. However, not a single person would refuse to have in their interior a thing that no one else has, which exists in a single copy. For such an acquisition, money and price are not the main thing, here you also have to work with your own hands. Although it will cost, of course, in the end it is cheaper than in the store. And this is also important in our time. I made a lot of decorative lamps and table lamps, for orders, as gifts, for myself. Some are described in past master classes. Today I want to offer another option.
It is not intended for reading or good lighting of the room, the main function of this lamp is to decorate the interior, and add coziness.
It will take
- For the base – a birch bough, 40-45 cm long, 3 – 3.5 cm in diameter.
- A small strip of birch bark.
- Drills for 10 mm, 3 mm, and a pen for 20 mm.
- Rechargeable battery, caliber no thicker than 18 mm.
- Instant glue and hot glue.
- Nippers, pliers, knife, scissors.
- Soldering iron with solder and flux.
- Thin wiring, from a USB cable, preferably red and black.
- Heat shrink tubes, different diameters.
- Clear acrylic lacquer and black acrylic paint.
- 4.2 V lithium-ion battery charging module.
- Module that boosts voltage up to 5 V.
- Switch (I took a remote, radio-controlled one, but you can also use a regular one).
- USB connector (“mother”).
- USB light bulb with flame effect.
Making a lamp
The first step is to choose a suitable workpiece. Namely, dry birch branch.
It is not worth mutilating a living tree (all the more fresh wood is unnecessary for us – it will lead and skew when it starts to dry), in any forest belt, or in a park, this goodness is in bulk and underfoot. You just need to carefully look so that the bough is exactly dry, and not rotten. I think everyone is able to distinguish dry wood from rotten wood, broken or saw cut. Next, you need to cut or break off the specified length for the future “torch”.
The end that has a more pronounced thickening must be singeed and charred in the fire.
You can do this with an ordinary turbo-lighter, or a gas blowtorch, but at least on a gas stove with a good exhaust, in the end! I, due to circumstances, being in the forest, simply made a fire and there I carried out all the preparatory work with the workpiece. Why is it important to burn? This is necessary in order to give the necessary decor to the workpiece. No paint will achieve this result. And then, in the course of work, we will complement the desired color scheme with black paint. So, having prepared the appearance and size, you need to make a recess in the scorched end for the battery and microcircuits. We will do this with a drill and a pen. First, we calculate the required depth so that all the above filling can fit there. Next, in the center we drill a hole of the desired depth with a 10 mm drill. Now we work on this hole with a pen.
The diameter of the hole should be based on the diameter of the battery. I took a battery from an electronic cigarette with a diameter of 18 mm, and a capacity of 1200 mAh.
It is quite capacious for its size. But if you want a larger capacity, you can drill a hole deeper and install an 18650 battery of the capacity you need. Next, we calculate the bottom of the recess from the outside, and drill a 3 mm hole for the charging module with a drill.
The hole for charging should be at the very bottom of the recess. We solder the wiring to the contacts of the charging module, bring the wiring out through the hole at the top, and with the help of a second glue we fix the module in the hole drilled for it.
Now solder the step-up module to the battery contacts.
We observe polarity. The step-up module is insulated with heat shrink. Now it’s the switch’s turn. It was possible, of course, to install a conventional switch, but I had a radio-controlled one lying around idle, and I decided to attach it to this lamp. In addition, I thought it would be much easier to drill a thin hole for the exit of the antenna wiring than to puff, picking out a rectangular hole for the switch. So, solder the switch according to the diagram.
We also isolate the board with heat shrink. Don’t forget to solder the antenna wire. Isolate the battery contacts with hot glue.
Next, with a 1 mm drill, we drill a hole for the antenna inside the recess. We bring the antenna wires out, at the same time pushing the entire filling inside the recess. Only two wires from the output of the radio switch should stick out, for the USB connector.
We solder the USB connector to the output wires, according to the polarity, and install it inside the recess, fixing it there with hot glue.
When the glue hardens, insert a light bulb with a flame effect into the connector. We check. If everything works as expected, we finish decorating. We glue the singed edges with birch bark, make cuts and notches on the edges in random order, and paint it all with black acrylic paint. Here’s what should happen:
It remains to cover the whole thing with acrylic varnish.
Well, I sawed out the rod on an emery machine from an ordinary chrome-plated tube, I didn’t bother too much.
Here everyone can make a stand to their taste. Here we have such a lamp-torch.
The antenna wire can be shortened to a minimum, peeled off the braid, and glued to the outer wall of the torch.
This is quite enough for a signal, at a distance of a good couple of tens of meters. The photo does not show the flickering effect of the flame, but in the video below the article, everything is fully visible.
Short video to test the torch in action
Complete torch manufacturing technology in video format