Such a device can be purchased at the store, but you have to pay a tidy sum. To save money, it can be made from old bicycle parts and scrap metal. This does not require cash costs, scarce materials and professional skills. Any adult can do this job.
It will take
- old bicycle chain;
- steel square bar;
- steel sheet or strip;
- rear bicycle sprocket with ratchet;
- bicycle axle;
- bolt and nuts are different;
- a piece of reinforcement;
- spray paint.
Tools: welding equipment, vise, drill, ruler and marker, pendulum saw and clamp.
The process of manufacturing a durable chain-link mesh tensioner from old parts and materials
We weld a part of a bicycle chain 20 cm long to a square bar in the longitudinal direction. Cut a strip 4 cm wide and 20 cm long from a metal strip. We lay a rod with a welded chain fragment on it.
On the strip on the sides of the chain, we longitudinally lay two square bars 20 cm long. We weld them to the strip so that the bar with the chain moves freely in both directions.
Unscrew the rear sprocket with a ratchet from the bicycle wheel. From a metal sheet we cut out two circles with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the ratchet. We put them on both sides in a ratchet and brew.
We find the center of the welded circles and drill holes in them, where we insert the bicycle axle and weld it in the center of the thread at one end. Part of the axis outside the thread is cut off.
We make 2 plates with holes at the ends in the center and rounded corners. We install an asterisk with a ratchet with a threaded axis at the edge of the chain. We put low nuts with a larger thread on both sides of the axle, then plates, which we press with nuts, and in this position we weld to the bars. After that, unscrew the outer nuts and put them aside.
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On the protruding parts of the axis, we perform 2 flats to the plates. In two square bars from one end we make cuts commensurate with the width of the ends of the axis. We cover the flat ends of the axis with cuts of the bars and cut off the bars at a height slightly greater than the outer radius of the sprocket.
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To the ends of the bars, opposite the slots, we weld a bar of calculated length. We weld a long bar to its center, parallel and opposite to the slotted bars.
To the end of the bar with the chain welded on the reverse side, we weld a small bar perpendicularly. On the reverse side of the strip, to which the guide rods are welded, at a distance of 4 cm from the end, we weld the plate vertically, and to it at the top level transversely – a bar for the entire width of the plate.
On the side of the bar from the outside, we weld a nut into which we screw the bolt. We weld a piece of reinforcement across the end of the bolt. Taking certain actions, we paint the tensioner in 2 colors in accordance with its functionality.
After one side of the chain-link mesh is welded to the frame, using our device, we stretch the opposite side and also weld it to the frame. As a result, the mesh is smoothed and becomes elastic.
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