The universal drill does not have the technical capabilities to ensure the ideal geometry and verticality of the drilling. Let’s make a rig from two old shock absorbers and turn an ordinary drill into a high-precision and productive tool. In this drain, it will not be necessary to use metal for the holder and base, therefore the repeatability of this design is very high and simple. After all, working with wood is always easier and more accessible.
It will take
- two old shock absorbers;
- spray paint;
- wood blanks;
- stud screws, washers, bolts and screws;
- metal tubes;
- common and flanged nuts;
- liquid plastic, etc.
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Tools: sandpaper, puncher, circular saw, router, jigsaw, grinder, ratchet, drilling machine, etc.
The process of making a drill stand from old shock absorbers
We clean old shock absorbers with sandpaper from various layers, coatings and rust. We drill the bottoms and, by moving the rods, we remove the shock-absorbing working fluid.
We wrap the mirrors of the rods with paper tape and paint the bodies of the shock absorbers with aerosol paint.
We cut out wooden blanks of the required sizes on a circular saw, taking into account the size of the drill and shock absorbers.
We mark out a workpiece made of wood of greater thickness and perform two drills, and in a smaller one – three.
We adjust the cutter’s compass for the required holes, install them in the drillings and make holes of the required diameter.
We make diametrically oriented cuts in the lintels with a small exit to the opposite sides of the holes on a circular in a workpiece with three holes.
Also, using two blind straight cuts on a circular and rounded on a jigsaw, we give the contour of the workpiece an acceptable shape. Grinding the outer contour with a grinder.
We drill blind holes perpendicular to the cuts, screw in the stud screws and tighten with a ratchet wrench.
We drill two stepped coaxial holes in a thick workpiece along the markings on a drilling machine.
On the long sides we make rectangular grooves of the required section.
We put metal tubes protruding from the edges of the workpiece into the grooves, and glue the strips on top. Moreover, the tubes must move freely in both directions. We cut off the ends of the planks on a circular.
We cut the thick workpiece into two pieces perpendicular to the square channels below the outer edges of the holes. In a small part, from the ends, we drill holes in the direction of the square channels.
We insert metal tubes into the square channels of most of the workpiece, put on a smaller part so that the ends of the tubes are flush with its surface. We screw the screws into the holes and fix the tubes.
We drill in a large part of the workpiece closer to the edge without holes in the direction of the square channels and cut the thread with a tap.
Fill the head of a 17mm spanner wrench, laid on a flat surface, with liquid plastic, lower the bolt head to 17 and let the plastic harden. We get a large fluted head for two bolts. We screw them into the threaded holes.
We put large washers on the shock absorber rods, insert the ends into the holes and from the back side, putting on the washers, securely fasten with flange nuts.
We lower the figured workpiece sliding along the shock absorber housings onto the bars. We put washers on the studs and tighten the nuts. Thanks to the slots, the holes tightly cover the bodies, and the figured workpiece moves up and down with them along the shock absorber rods.
In the third hole we insert the fastening belt of the drill body. If there is a large gap, we wrap the tape on the belt.
We fix the Forstner drill in the drill and drill a hole in the base.
From its working side in the transverse direction, we perform triangular milling in cross-section to fix round workpieces.
To the movable part of the base, we screw the bar sliding along the guide bar with screws.
By extending or sliding the movable part and fixing with bolts through metal tubes, we set the distance from the base to the holes to be drilled. Drilling of single holes is also possible. In any case, they will be ideal in geometry and verticality.